Varanasi

We were on the overnight train from Agra to Varanasi. After several long stops, we eventually pulled in at Varanasi Station at 6:30 am; about 1½ hours late.

We checked in to our hotel, The Ganges Grand, then headed out to sightsee. 

A few of the huge number of pilgrims in Varanasi

The hotel was really well located in the old city, and our room overlooked a key intersection so it was a great place for people-watching. 

We struck a time when there were thousands and thousands of pilgrims in the city. They had come to the Kumbha Mela Festival, a Hindu pilgrimage held every 12 years.

From our window we watched swarm after colourful swarm of people, walking to the Ganges River to bathe in its holy water. They would then double back to join a queue to get to the Golden Temple, Shri Vishwanath, just up the road from our hotel, to worship.

That afternoon, we set out for a walk through the Hindu part of the old city with Niwash, our guide. 

Ancient buildings in narrow Varanasi old town

He took us through an endless labyrinth of narrow streets. Each street was bound by ancient buildings, some with balconies where you felt you could reach out and touch the house opposite. 

The streets contained very basic homes and tiny shops, and Shiva Temples of every size. Many of the temples were built into the side of a house (to bring good luck).

The narrow streets did not deter motor-bikers who whizzed around whatever was in front of them.

A narrow street in Varanasi old town

Cows and dogs wandered everywhere and as a pedestrian, it was a major undertaking to walk safely, avoiding the cow dung, dog excrement, broken paths, dirt and rubbish.

Monkeys were also a hazard; they jumped across buildings, stole fruit and vegetables from street vendors and tossed stalks etc down at pedestrians. 

Monkey at the market, Varanasi 

During our walk, Niwash took us to his house in the old city where we met his wife and 8 year old son. As we sat on a mat on his flat rooftop drinking chai/tea, Niwash proudly told us that his house had been passed down through four generations, and would eventually be his son’s.

Niwash was very proud of having an indoor toilet and running water. The water did not flow into a sink, but came into the house from the street via a hose with a tap attached, and it then drained back out into the street.

Near Niwash's house, Varanasi

We felt it was not polite to take photos of his house. However, it is very old and very narrow. It is three stories high with a concrete and earthen floor at the entry level, then concrete steps and floors at other levels. There are very few windows.

Leaving there, we visited many other key sights in Varanasi, including several colourful temples. Later, we headed back to our hotel for a respite from the heat and hustle of the day.

People on the banks of the Ganges for Ganga Aarti

That evening we went down to the Ganges River to watch a religious event, the Ganga (Ganges) Aarti ceremony at the Dasawamedh Ghat (steps).

Niwash found us a spot on the ledge of a temple so we had a good view over the huge number of people below.

A lot of people watched it from the water in what seemed like hundreds of boats. It was a spectacular sight. 

More people watching the Ganga Aarti, this time in boats

On the river bank below us were a group of Naga Sadhu, holy men, with white painted skin, some in incredible poses that twisted their limbs.

The next morning we were up very early, as we were going for a boat ride on the Ganges to see the sun rise. What we saw was beautiful and worth every bit of the early start.

The sun rising, and moon setting-visible at the same time

A huge red sun slowly rose over the river and in the opposite direction, we could see the still large full moon, pale in the sky.

Further up the river we saw the funeral pyres, where people take their loved ones to be cremated and have their ashes scattered on the river.

Nearby, on the river bank we saw pilgrims washing in the Ganges.

Pilgrims bathing in the holy water of the Ganges River

The next day we visited Sarnath, about 10 kms from Varanasi and saw a lot of Buddhist temples. This seemed to be a quieter area and much cleaner in parts. Returning to Varanasi later, we felt it had been a good day, getting out of the hustle and bustle of Varanasi old town.

Walking around Varanasi was a challenge because of the sheer number of people, vying transport methods, and animals. The cacophony of noise was unbelievable, but the whole experience was wonderful.

Varanasi hustle and bustle

Time to move on – our next stop is Delhi and the end of our organised tour. We then head off to see the rest of India on our own.

The above blog is part of our 2 month tour of India. The first blog on this tour is called "Off to Delhi".