Antarctica

After returning our rented motorhome Vdos to her Buenos Aires owners, we flew to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in Argentina and the world. We went there to embark upon a 10-day cruise to Antarctica.

Ushuaia street

While there, we explored the town, enjoying the colourful houses and shops, steep streets, and the vibrancy of the place.

It is located on the shores of the Beagle Channel, and surrounded by mountains. It's a sizeable city with a resident population of around 57,000 that swells considerably in the tourist season.

There were people everywhere when we were there. It was easy to spot the tourists as they were all wrapped up against the cold, including us!

Ushuaia-Prison at the End of the World now a museum

We visited several tourist places there, including a museum that used to be a jail. It had a lot of interesting exhibits.

We also had an asada, a traditional dish of Argentina, Chile, Paraguay and Uruguay. It is meat cooked on an open fire or a grill called a parrilla. The locals tend to cook whole lamb, and they do it on a spit over hot coals. It is so very delicious.

After a few days in Ushuaia, we boarded our ship, the MS Expedition operated by G-Adventures. She was to be our home in Antarctica for the next ten days.

MS Expedition docked at Ushuaia

During the boarding process, we had our photo taken for an identity card, and were then put into groups for shore landings and short trips. A zodiac inflatable boat is used for these, and each zodiac group was given the name of an Antarctic penguin. We were 'chinstraps' after the chinstrap penguin.

Finding our cabin was the next step, and it turned out to be on the port side.

To our great delight, we had been upgraded from a port-hole cabin to one with a large window. It was very spacious compared to our motorhome, Vdos.

Our cabin on the MS Expedition

The MS Expedition takes 132 passengers and we had about 110 for this trip. There were a lot of Americans and Aussies on board, quite a few Brits and Canadians, and a smattering of Europeans. There was also a couple of Chinese Kiwis.

The engines soon started and we were off, out of the harbour and into the Beagle Channel, the strip of water at the extreme tip of South America between Argentina and Chile. 

Shortly after, that, we entered the Drake Passage.

Leaving Ushuaia-photo taken from MS Expedition

The Drake is the body of water that runs between South America and Antarctica. It is where the south-western part of the Atlantic Ocean meets the south-eastern part of the Pacific Ocean.

We had heard that the weather and seas would normally be really rough for the two-day crossing of the Drake Passage. However, we were very lucky - apart from a bit of rocking and rolling on the first night, we had relatively calm conditions and sunny days.

Marg chilling out while crossing the unusually calm Drake Passage

Marg had prepared for seasickness with a patch and pills, so was very pleased to feel ok and relaxed.

The weather was so good that we made speedy progress. The time gained, meant we we're able to make an unplanned zodiac landing in the South Shetlands, a group of Antarctic islands in the Drake Passage.

Before we got there, we were issued with a super-padded waterproof red parka each (which we got to keep), and gumboots (which we didn’t).

Lovely warm G-Adventures red parka on the MS Expedition, Drake Passage

It was cold out, so under our red parka we wore thermals with 2 or 3 layers of tops, trousers, waterproof pants, a hat, scarf, and 2 sets of gloves. We looked like little chubbies! 

All wrapped up, we boarded a zodiac for our landing in the South Shetlands. All landings on this expedition are shore landings with no piers or wharves. So, after a choppy shore landing, we took our first land-steps on this amazing trip. 

We felt quite prepared for the super-cold weather with all of our layers of clothing on. However, we were totally unprepared for the monochromatic beauty of the place. It was stunning. 

King George Island, and our first tiny penguin (bottom left of photo), Southern Shetlands, Antarctica

We were on King George Island, the largest of the South Shetland Islands, which we had heard abounds with penguins, and elephant and fur seals. And indeed, just stepping onto the shoreline, we spotted our first penguin. 

In fact, we were really lucky as we saw three types of penguins there. They were adélie, gentoo, and chinstrap penguins. As our zodiac group was called 'The Chinstraps', we were very excited to see those penguins in particular. 

Penguins: Top left - a chinstrap. Top right - two adélies. Bottom - gentoos

They turned out to be very cute with a definite black line under their chin. The adélie has a black hood with a bit of white around the eyes, and the gentoo has a white marking across the head and very red beak.

These three species are all a similar height being between 68 cm (27 inches) and 71 cm (28 inches) tall.

We also saw plenty of seals. Most of them were lying about on land, and were easy to spot as they look like chubby dark-brown blobs on the white snow.

Seal frolicking in the waters off King George Island, South Shetlands, Antarctica

A few chose to frolic in the shallows of the beach, and we spent ages watching them. They appeared to be really enjoying themselves judging by the variety of grunting sounds. They seemed totally unperturbed that we were watching them bathe.

This first experience on the snow and ice was so exhilarating. 

Our next stop was the Antarctic Peninsula, and on the way, we went through a wee snow storm. Being in falling snow is a bit of a novelty for us, so we went out on deck to enjoy it. We were definitely in a very cold place!

MS Expedition-Neko Harbour, Antarctica

The morning after that, we sailed into Neko Harbour. We were surrounded by icebergs, snow covered mountains, and glaciers, some of them calving with big bits of ice cracking off and crashing into the water. It was a truly beautiful sight.

Then we had our first landing of the day and walked past gentoo penguin breeding colonies. Neko Harbour is an important bird and biodiversity area as it supports this colony of more than 250 breeding pairs.

They are noisy little things and certainly have an interesting smell!

Gentoo penguin nesting on the Antarctic Peninsula above Neko Harbour

They didn't seem to be too concerned that we were there. It was fabulous to be able to get so close to them and see how they built their nests out of stones.

Our second landing was in the early afternoon, on Danco Island. There were even more gentoos nesting on bare rocky patches.

They spent a great deal of time collecting stones to build a nest, often stealing these from their neighbours. It created plenty of action and noise when the theft was discovered.

Penguin highway, Antarctica

To get to the sea for their food, they mostly travelled along ‘penguin highways’, deep tracks they had made in the snow from repeat trips. There were penguins constantly going up and down the highways. They were really cute and seemed ok with us, as long we stood quietly to let them pass.

Later that day, we cruised through some huge icebergs around Danco Harbour, and managed to get up very close to them in the zodiac. It was amazing.

Iceberg, rolled over showing its dimpled bottom, Antarctica

We saw one that had recently rolled over showing its dimpled bottom.

Another highlight of this day was seeing our first minke whale. They are a smallish by whale standards, surface only briefly, and are very hard to spot.

The next day, the ship prepared to sail through the Lemaire Channel. We were told that the Channel had been completely blocked with ice a week or so earlier, and that we may not get through. 

Icebergs near the entrance to the Lemaire Channel, Antarctica

However, the Captain was prepared to see if he could get through the ice this time, to reach the other end of the Channel.

We moved very slowly in the very calm and reflecting water as large chunks of ice thumped against the hull.

Looking ahead, all you could see was more and more ice and icebergs, as the ship moved slowly but relentlessly toward a wee gap on the horizon. It was both daunting and fabulous!

Ice floes, a wee gap, and reflections in a calm Lemaire Channel, Antarctica

Everyone was on deck to watch as the ship moved into an ever-narrowing waterway, with lots and lots of ice.

Photos don't do justice to the beauty of the snow-topped mountains reflected in the still waters of the Channel.

Arriving close to the southern end of the Channel, a zodiac was sent out to check the ice conditions ahead.

A wall of ice blocking the southern end of the Lemaire Channel, Antarctica

Eventually the Captain announced that, unfortunately, the ship could not get through. So, we did a U-turn and went back the way we had come, marvelling at how much ice we had forced our way through.

During the return journey, we spotted, a huge (3 metres long) leopard seal snoozing on an iceberg, more penguins, and another minke whale.

3-metre-long, bored looking leopard seal, Antarctica

The ship expedition team were very knowledgeable about Antarctica, and there was lots of information sharing during and after zodiac trips.

There were also lectures that you could attend, about the animals, history of the Antarctic, background to the ship, and photography in Antarctic conditions.

Later that day, we had a zodiac trip to see some really incredible icebergs that were all shapes, sizes and colours. Again, it was fantastic to be able to get so close to them.

Raft of penguins in the Lemaire Channel, Antarctica

While out in the zodiac, we were privileged to spot what is called a 'raft of penguins'. This is a large group of penguins swimming together on the surface of the water, while chasing food. It was an incredible sight.

Our zodiac driver said she had been working in the Antarctic for years and it was only the second time she had seen this.

                                            

Still out in the zodiac, we came across a huge leopard seal in the water.

Leopard seal and penguin feet! Lemaire Channel, Antarctica

Then we spotted two little pink feet sticking out of its mouth – it had caught a penguin. Not a pleasant sight as it threw it in the air and slapped it down in the water preparing to eat it.

It was a wee insight to the food chain in the Antarctic.

Back on the ship and moving again, we were treated to another amazing sight. It was a group of humpback whales right in front of the ship, bubble-net feeding. 

Humpback whales bubble-net feeding, Port Charcot, Antarctica

They swam in front of us, diving then surfacing, and creating lots of bubbles. The bubbles apparently disorient fish so that the whales can corral them and feed on them.

We had an incredible view of their very large bodies. They were swimming and diving in all directions as they fed right in front of us.

About 40 minutes later, they moved away and we continued on our way too, feeling very privileged to have witnessed such an event.

Humpback whale diving, Port Charcot, Antarctica

After breakfast the next morning, we set off in zodiacs for Port Lockroy and an Antarctic Treaty Historic Site called ‘British Base A’. Established during WWII, it was the first permanent British base on the Antarctic Peninsula. Now, it is the most southerly operational post office in the world, and they process around 70,000 pieces of mail here every tourist season.

The base is an amazingly preserved old building containing all sorts of historic items such as tinned food, clothing, communication equipment, and everything else that was needed to live there in past eras.

British Base A post office, Port Lockroy, Antarctica

It has been run as a museum and post office for tourists since 2006, and is currently staffed by three women, accompanied by a colony of nesting gentoos.

Apparently, every year the team receives several brooms to clean up the penguin droppings outside the building, with the staff admitting that it often looks like a penguin toilet!

After a look around British Base A, we crossed the bay to Jougla Point, where we walked on sea ice. Apparently, a rare event at this time of the year.

Us with sea ice behind, Jougla Point, Antarctica

It was incredible to think there was deep, freezing water right under our feet. We also saw lots of blue-eyed shags there. Their eyes really are an amazing blue.

Later, we cruised up the Neumayer Channel to Paradise Bay.

Out on the zodiacs again, we had a very upfront view of some amazingly coloured and shaped glaciers and icebergs. 

Paradise Bay glacier, Antarctica

We have seen several well-known glaciers in Patagonia and those in Paradise Bay were much bigger and, in many cases, older. Some of the iceberg shapes were incredible; all crafted by nature. 

In the afternoon, we landed at Damoy Point Research Station. Beside the Station, was a peak giving a great view out over the bay.

We both climbed up there, but it was very tough going, climbing upwards through the snow. It was very thick, soft and deep - knee deep for most (thigh deep for short folk like Leigh).

Snow slide, Damoy Point, Antarctica 

After admiring the view, we slid down the long steep slope on our bums. Woo hoo – what an adrenaline rush, and lots of fun.

We would have had a second go except it was just too hard to struggle back up to the top again through the deep snow.

The last morning of expeditions saw us enter Whalers Bay on Deception Island. The Island is actually the crater of a submerged active volcano.

Decrepit whaling buildings, Whalers Bay, Deception Isl, Antarctica

There we saw the remains of an old whaling station. It had been deserted when the whaling industry collapsed in the 1920s. The buildings were then damaged by volcanic eruptions in the 1960s and 70s.

It had an eerie feeling to it with the white snow, black and red scoria sand on the beach, and ramshackle rusty wrecked buildings.

The area was made more mystical by the steam rising from the thermal activity below the sand.

Old whale oil vats, Whalers Bay, Deception Island, Antarctica

Some people went for a swim in the bay. However, the sane ones like us, stayed on shore.

While the edge of the water was warm from the thermal activity, less than a meter out it was absolutely freezing.

In the afternoon we sailed to Half Moon Bay to see a large colony of nesting chinstrap penguins.

Pick the odd one out - Macaroni penguin among the Chinstraps, Half Moon Bay, Antarctica

After a climb through very deep snow, we arrived at the colony and were surprised to see, right in the middle of the chinstraps, a cute, lonely-looking macaroni penguin.

Macaroni’s are rarely spotted so we were very lucky. They don’t look like other penguins because of their different beak and crazy yellow haircut.

Who knew what our macaroni was thinking when he mucked in with the chinstraps, but they appeared to accept her/him. It seems nature deals well with diversity. It makes one wonder why humans struggle with it so much.

Catherine performing in the Polar Bear Bar, MS Expedition

Our ship had a range of entertainment for us every night such as Catherine, who with her great voice and talented guitar playing, entertained us into the wee hours in the Polar Bear Bar.

On the last night, they showed the movie Happy Feet. A very appropriate movie considering how many penguins we had seen.

So, lots of things to do if you had the stamina after such busy and energy-filled days! At meal times you sat at whatever table you liked, so it was a good way to meet new people.

Cruising mates-Top: Debbie and Gary (Aust). Brenda and Julie (Seattle).
Bottom: Sandy and Chris (Seattle). The Seattle four

We met some great people; Debbie and Gary from Mount Coolum on Australia’s Sunshine Coast, and a group of women from Seattle in the USA, whose company we really enjoyed as the trip progressed.

The food was fantastic with lots of choice and we were a bit concerned about how much weight we might put on if we kept trying all the food, including desserts!

Too soon, the time came to head back over the Drake Passage to Ushuaia. However, this time, the Drake lived up to its turbulent reputation.

The first inkling of a big sea - the angle of the ship!

We had noticed that the seas were not always flat, when we looked out of our cabin window and everything was sliding around a bit. However, we thought nothing more about it, as we were hungry, so went to dinner as planned.

Everyone was eating dinner when we all noticed the wind and swell suddenly picking up. The next minute, everything on the tables started to move and roll.

Wine glasses fell over, plates started sliding off tables, and it became hard to stay seated and eat at the same time. 

Most people finished eating immediately, and with the evening entertainment cancelled, they headed to their cabins.

Force 10 gale on the Drake Passage

The sea grew increasingly rough and we held on for dear life in our beds, trusting that the captain knew what he was doing!

As the night wore on, the ship's rolling and bucking became more alarming. Leigh swears that the ship listed to 45 degrees on more than one occasion.

We learned the next morning that the night’s storm had been a force 10 gale with winds between 89 - 102 km/hr, and a heavy rolling sea!

Not pleasant, but we were happy to have survived with no sickness, or damaged belongings.

Cape Horn

The captain headed for the famous Cape Horn overnight to take shelter. As we were only three kilometres out, in the morning, we had a great view of this notorious point of land. Such a bonus as ships on our route often don't get to the Horn.

The storm we experienced was terrible, but not the worst that the Drake has to offer. It’s not hard to imagine how the ships and lives that have been lost there over the centuries, were caught out.

Returning to Ushuaia, happy in calmer seas

We cruised on into Ushuaia that evening for our last night on the ship, before disembarking the next morning.

We sadly said goodbye to the friends we had made on board, and headed to our hotel thinking of all the amazing sights we had seen on this beautiful continent. We won't ever forget this trip, but are looking forward to being on land for a bit, so are spending some time in nearby Tierra del Fuego National Park.

The above is part of our 4-months of independent travel in South America.