The Pantanal, Brazil

After a great visit to Iguaçu Falls, we flew northwards into the heartlands of Brazil. We were going there because we had planned a jaguar safari in the Pantanal.

One of the South American jaguars that we saw in the Pantanal, Brazil

The Pantanal is the biggest inland wetland in the world. It covers around 200,000 sq km of central Brazil, eastern Bolivia and north-eastern Paraguay. It is one of the most biologically diverse places on Earth, with more than 4,700 species of plants and animals. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Our flight landed in Cuiabá (ku-wee-a-bar), a big city that lies along the banks of the Rio Cuiabá (River Cuiabá) in central Brazil. Cuiabá is the gateway to the northern Pantanal.

Cuiabá, Brazil, gateway to the northern Pantanal, Brazil

We arrived at our hotel in Cuiabá, to learn that a car and driver would meet us early the next morning to take us into the Pantanal. We'd booked our safari online from home in New Zealand, so it was good to have confirmation that everything was on track.

Very, very early the next morning, we were met and briefed on our journey. Then our driver loaded our gear into his 4-wheel-drive, and we were off.

Street in Poconé, Brazil

It is a very long drive deep into the wetlands, so we first made a stop in the town of Poconé, for water and supplies. 

Poconé marks the beginning of the Transpantaneira Road, a 150 km stretch of isolated dirt road through the Pantanal, that links Poconé to Porto Jofre – jaguar territory.

There was a lot to see along this road. We passed cattle fazendas (farms), many giant termite mounds, and grasslands.

Us at the beginning of the Transpantaneira Road near Poconé 

Several times we were stopped by large herds of cattle being driven along the road, and we wondered at the impact of so much cattle on the wetlands! 

We also saw a huge variety of birds.

We were hoping to spot endangered and rare species of wildlife in the Pantanal, as well as unique birds. So, we drove further along the Transpantaneira Road and deeper into the Pantanal, with huge anticipation.

Pantanal entrance with guardians

After a long, dusty but interesting drive, we arrived at Pousada (guest house) Clarinho.

We were there for lunch, which consisted of a range of meats, fruits, and salads prepared in the local style. Over lunch, we met up with Carlos, our safari guide, and a young Spanish couple who would join us on safari.

During lunch there was a bit of excitement, as a rare marsh deer came to the local waterhole to drink.

Female Marsh Deer, Pantanal (UNESCO), Brazil

Marsh deer once roamed widely in subtropical South America. However, due to destruction of their habitat, and hunting males for their antlers, they are now endangered. These days, they are confined mostly to the Pantanal and Chaco areas. We felt lucky to see this one.

After lunch, we set off in a 4-wheel-drive ute, with guide Carlos on a raised seat in the back, watching for wildlife. 

Time and time again, we screeched to a halt to view animals and birds in the wetland grasses alongside the road. It was so interesting.

Caiman spotted on our drive in the Pantanal (UNESCO) 

A highlight was spotting dozens of caiman sunning themselves on the banks of waterholes, and lurking among the lily pads. Caiman are large aquatic reptiles that are closely related to alligators and crocodiles. They live in the river and swamps of Central and South America. 

Driving the Transpantaneira meant crossing about 120 rickety wooden bridges, built to ensure vehicle access during the wet season.

Transpantaneira bridge - one of many like this 

Although in varying degrees of repair, they seemed to be standing up to the passing traffic.

After several hours we reached the end of the road; Porto Jofre. This settlement consists of a small collection of pousadas and boats. But its modest size belies its importance as the entry point to the undeveloped and near pristine, Pantanal Mato-Grossense National Park. It is here that we hoped to see jaguars.

We were staying at Porto Jofre Pousada and Camping. Our room was fairly basic, but it was clean, and with its own bathroom and air-conditioning. The latter being a necessity as it was extremely hot, with the temperature being in the 40's!

Porto Jofre boats on Rio Cuiabá, Rio Cuiabá, Pantanal (UNESCO)

The next morning, the sun was just coming up as we had breakfast, and then it was onto a small motor-boat to head up river for some jaguar spotting.

We were one of a small number of boats on the river, some faster than others, all carrying eager wildlife spotters. 

Fortunately, it didn't feel crowded.

Marg, on Cuiabá River ready for wild-life spotting

The river was big enough, so that with boats going in different directions at different times, it seemed as though it was just us enjoying the river and nature.

We were travelling at a very sedate pace, enabling us to watch the surrounds. The bird life was amazing with so many different calls all around us, some more tuneful than others. 

Every tree along the river seemed to have an inhabitant or two perched on its branches.

L: Hyacinth macaw; Whistling heron; Anhinga.
R: Wattled Jacana; Jabiru storks; Black collared hawk

There were ibis, cormorants, storks, herons, curassows, rare macaws, and kingfishers, to name few; an endless range of water birds as well as land birds.

We were told that there were over 550 different species of birds in the Pantanal.

Along with the amazing birdlife, we saw lots of wildlife, including capybaras. These are furry, blunt-nosed creatures about the size of a very large dog. 

Capybara on a sandbank, Rio Cuiabá, Pantanal (UNESCO)

They swim very well with the help of webbing at the joints of their feet, and seem to like sitting on sandbanks. They are the largest living rodent in the world.

We saw individuals, pairs, and a lovely group of females with a whole lot of babies. Very cute!

We also saw more and bigger, caiman, and there were so many of them! It was a little daunting being in a small boat around these creatures. 

Caiman on edge of Rio Cuiabá, Pantanal (UNESCO)

They were either in stealth mode with just their eyes and snouts poking out of the water, or basking in the sun on the river bank. 

They are known as the scavengers of the Pantanal, because they eat anything and everything. We even saw one caiman eating another!

Quite early in our morning boat trip, word came over the RT that a jaguar had been spotted not far from where we were. We raced to the spot and there it was - on the riverbank, lounging in the shadow of a tree. So exciting!

Jaguar 1: Cooling off under a tree, Rio Cuiabá, Pantanal (UNESCO)

Jaguars are great swimmers, so we were pleased not to get too close (about 3 metres away, but in a fast boat). We were able to have a good look and get some wonderful photos.

Jaguars are considered ‘Near Threatened’, rather than ‘Endangered’ as a species. But because their habitat is being cleared for farmland, and they are being hunted, their numbers continue to decrease. 

But we were lucky, as during this morning's trip we saw two more jaguars, a big one sitting on the river bank, and another moving back into the undergrowth.

Jaguar 2: On the riverbank, Rio Cuiabá, Pantanal (UNESCO)

Our guide and driver were most excited at seeing three jaguars in one trip - as were we!

We'd been on a safari in the Bolivian Gran Chaco last year and seen jaguars. However, we were much closer here, being on the water. We felt privileged to see these big cats in their natural habitat.

We also saw some rare giant river otters. An adult can grow to about 1.7 m long, and they are very fast in the water, and look so sleek. 

Giant river otters, Rio Cuiabá, Pantanal (UNESCO)

They are rare, because they are endangered. Their natural habitat is under threat, the river is polluted due to mining and agriculture, their main food-source is being over-fished, and fur traders hunt them for their sleek velvety coat.

In the boat, we were able to get really close to an extended family coming in and out of their den under the river bank. 

They were really vocal as they moved about looking at us and wondering if we were a threat.

Giant river otter pup, swimming toward us, Rio Cuiabá, Pantanal (UNESCO)

There was a baby otter that was very curious, and kept swimming toward our boat. However, the adults quickly herded it back to the den.

In all, we had about eight hours on the river and saw a huge range of wildlife.

Our day on the river ended with a spectacular sunset, before we headed back to our pousada and dinner.

Sunset over the Rio Cuiabá, Pantanal (UNESCO)

Bags packed and loaded on the ute the next morning, we headed back along the Transpantaneira toward our final nights’ accommodation.

Lots more birds, capybara, and caiman were spotted along the way. We also saw rheas (like a small emu), and an armadillo.

We arrived at Pousada Clarinho, just in time for another delicious lunch, prepared in the local way. 

Entrance to Pousada Clarinho, Pantanal (UNESCO)

That evening we went out spotlighting, seeing another marsh deer, and some howler and capuchin monkeys.

The next morning, we were up early to see the sunrise from a giant tower above the treetops. The sun was a huge red ball, slowly rising, accompanied by a succession of birds awakening. 

It was a spectacular sight and sound.

Sunrise over the Rio Claro, Pantanal (UNESCO)

After breakfast we had another bush walk, and then we were on the Rio Claro (Claro River) in a very small boat. While on the water, we spotted a toucan flying past. What amazing-looking, but hard-to-find birds they are.

We were pleased to be doing these activities early in the day as by 10 am, the temperature was already up to 46 degrees. 

On our last day we went out on horseback to see what wildlife we could find. 

Marg, looking cool on a hot day in the Pantanal

We spotted some wild buffaloes and more monkeys but it was so, so hot. We think the animals were staying in the shade and out of sight. Smart critters.

Heading back to Cuiabá for the night, we agreed that we'd had an incredible experience in the Pantanal. It is something we will never forget.

The next morning, we were up very early again in order to catch a flight to Salvador, our next destination.

The above is part of our 4-months of independent travel in South America.