Exploring the White City of Sucre (Bolivia)

We were on a bus, travelling on a winding high-altitude road from Potosí to Sucre in Bolivia. Our fellow travellers wore variations of bowler hats, hooped skirts, waistcoats and felted shoes. Most carried a colourful sack hanging off one shoulder, or a package of produce. This uniform changed very little as we made the many drop-offs and pick-ups in isolated places along the route. Once again, we were the only gringos on the bus. 

Scenery on the winding high-altitude road between Potosí and Sucre, Bolivia

The road was in reasonable condition, and we travelled through very rocky and steep countryside. We were travelling on the edge of the Andes Mountains, at an altitude of between 2,800 and 3,900 metres, depending on the road. 

We did a lot of heavy breathing on that bus, but whether it was the high altitude or the tricky drive on such a high winding and windy road; who knows!

The land was sparsely populated with small mudbrick villages. 

Crops growing in the dry soils of the Andes between Potosí and Sucre, Bolivia 

Village life included tending llamas and alpacas, growing crops, and hoeing the earth by hand. The dry grey dirt looked like hard earth to make a living from.

We climbed to the top of the mountains, and then had an extremely steep descent that seemed to go on and on. Eventually we made it down to a lower level as we approached the outskirts of Sucre. The driver did a great job getting our very full bus down into Sucre without burning out the brakes.

After the 4-hour trip, we arrived at the Sucre bus station, then found a taxi to take us to our accommodation, Casa Al Tronco at the edge of the Sucre city centre.

The outside of our hotel in Sucre, Bolivia

Winding through the hilly narrow city streets, our taxi dropped us off at fairly unassuming and non-signposted green doors, that opened right onto the narrow footpath. 

Through the door we found ourselves in a courtyard that had doors and steps leading off in all directions, and being warmly greeted by Tania and Ebo, our hosts. The Casa, inside those green doors, was absolutely charming.

"The Suite", our room at the Casa Al Tronco, Sucre, Bolivia

We managed to get "The Suite" which is a large sunny room, overlooking the courtyard and the city. We instantly knew this was going to be a great place to relax.

Sucre is a high-altitude city sitting at 2,810 metres at the edge of the Andes Mountains in the south-central part of Bolivia. Our previous stop Potosi, has an altitude of 4,090 metres and so we were confident that we could handle Sucre's altitude with no ill effects.

After unpacking, we headed out and explored this interesting looking city.

Steep streets of Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia

Walking down the steep streets to the city centre, we passed many lovely old, old buildings. Some were small and quaint, and others were quite big and imposing; and these were just the suburbs! 

Arriving into the centre, we could sense that this city had something special about it. We felt it had a look of historic grandeur, wealth, and sophistication, with clean streets, and cafes and restaurants dotted throughout.

Colonial architecture in Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia

Often called La Cuidad Blanca or the White City, it abounds with beautiful buildings, most of which are...well...white.

Sucre was founded by the Spanish in 1538, and became the capital of Bolivia in 1839. These days, with a population of around 284,000, Sucre is the judicial capital of Bolivia, and the location of Bolivia's Supreme Court.

A legacy of Spanish occupation, is Sucre's well-preserved historic colonial architecture, which has resulted in Sucre being designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Colonial architecture and balconies in Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia

Many of the buildings have delicately wrought iron balconies or carved wooden balconies overhanging the street.

Built in a compact grid of streets, it was very easy to walk, and to find your way around some of the elegant landmark buildings.

There were many that we admired and visited, including Casa de la Libertad (House of Freedom) built in 1621, which is one of Bolivia’s most significant buildings as it contains Bolivia’s declaration of Independence; Gobierno Autónomo Departamental de Chuquisaca, the local government building which was built in 1896; and The Catedral Metropolitana de Sucre, the seat of the Roman Catholic Church in Bolivia.

Leigh enjoying the cooling fountain at Plaza 25 de Mayo, Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia

These significant buildings are all situated around the beautiful Plaza 25 de Mayo, the main plaza of Sucre. They, and the Plaza represents the very heart of Sucre, and some say of Bolivia, due to their historical significance in Bolivia's growth and independence.

The beautifully treed Plaza 25 de Mayo, is used by many people to rest in the shade, and as a meeting point before visiting one of the many nearby restaurants. It's a very vibrant area.

We noticed that the Plaza was surrounded by stalls selling food and drinks, there was folk-dancing and singing, and lots of music.

Street parade in Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia

Then a parade began. it seemed we had arrived in the middle of a celebration. We learned later, that it was to celebrate the Virgen de Guadalupe Festival.

The Virgin of Guadalupe (also known as the Black Madonna), is the patron of Sucre. The Virgin is revered in most Catholic countries and was introduced to La Plata, now known as Sucre, in 1601 by the Spanish Jeronymite friar Diego de Ocaña.

We found a seat in the temporary stands around the Plaza and watched with great interest and enjoyment as men and women of all ages and many ethnicities paraded by.

Festival of the Virgen de Guadalupe parade, Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia

There were so many people dressed in a huge range of costumes and colours. We decided there were more people in the parade than in the audience!

We spent quite a bit of time watching and being entertained, before walking around to see more of this lovely city.

The next day, we walked around a different part of the city, heading toward more beautiful white buildings.

Teatro Gran Mariscal, Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia

On that walk, we found the neoclassical, slightly art-deco looking Teatro Gran Mariscal which sits across from the Plaza de la Libertad.

That plaza, while being much smaller than the Plaza 25 de Mayo, was non-the-less significant, containing a tall white obelisk that commemorates the 1809 Declaration of Independence.

Just up the road, we found the attractive and while neoclassic style Supreme Court of Justice. Opposite that we found a beautiful park with a stunning white entry arch. 

Marg with the tiny replica Eiffel Tower in Simón Bolívar Park, Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia

It was Simón Bolívar Park, a large green and leafy park containing, among other things, a small replica of the Eiffel Tower that kids can climb on.

There was also the Bicentennial Fountain that has musically coordinated coloured water displays, many food stalls, play areas for kids and lots of places to sit and relax. We found it a joyous place with many families picnicking and playing together.

Each time we left our accommodation heading into the city, we passed the La Recoleta Monastery and its plaza.

Marg in the plaza at La Recoleta, Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia

In the late afternoon, the plaza fills up with young people and families playing and socializing. We found it to be an interesting and lively place.

The Monastery was founded by the Franciscan Monks in 1601. It is huge and comprised of many white buildings linked by corridors with stone columns. It houses the Mirador Café which we visited on a number of occasions as it has good food and wonderful views over Sucre.

La Recoleta Monastery, Sucre (UNESCO), Bolivia

There were many other places that we visited, such as the St Francis Xavier University, one of the oldest in the world, museums, churches, palaces, and the National Library. Sucre is a very attractive city.

We also found it a friendly city, and an easy place to explore over the days we were there. 

But sadly, the day came for us to bid farewell to Sucre and move on to Santa Cruz, our next destination.

This is part of a blog series about our un-escorted travels through the north-eastern countries of South America. The first blog in this series is called “In and around Santiago”.