Battambang

Drought stricken land near Battambang

We really enjoyed our time in Phnom Penh, and were now in a mini-bus driving toward the north-west of Cambodia.

Our destination is Battambang, which is 290 km away. In the small mini-bus, this will take us between 4 and 5 hours on the tarmac road.

The very fast driver stopped for lunch in Pursat. We had a bit of fun finding something that we felt we could safely eat, and had time to experience the interesting toilet there.

Moving on, the further north we went, the drier and poorer it looked.

Our hotel room, Battambang

The land was red, and so were the houses and shop products.

There had been a drought, the temperatures were in the low 40s and the dust was everywhere.

Poverty was very evident.

After about 6 hours, we arrived in Battambang and grabbed a remork to get the final few kilometres to our accommodation, the Delux Villa Hotel.

Thankfully it had great air-conditioning and also a fan, so we spent the rest of the afternoon cooling down.

Battambang

The next morning saw us walking out and about in downtown Battambang.

Founded in the 11th century by the Khymer Empire, Battambang is now the 2nd largest city in Cambodia (population 200,000). 

It is also the main rice-producing area of Cambodia.

One nice thing about Battambang is that it seemed low key and not touristy.

There were plenty of shop-houses (a shop and home in one building), and French Colonial architecture.

The bamboo train

But unfortunately, there was also plenty of rubbish in the street.

We were here because we wanted to undertake what was labelled, “the most scenic river trip in the country that links Battambang with Siem Reap, across Tonle Sap” (Lake).

However, that trip was not to be, as the drought had reduced the water levels of Tonle Sap too much.

Never mind, we had other things to see in Battambang, so off we went.

We grabbed a remork and headed to the tiny village of O Dambong II on the outskirts of Battambang, to catch the bamboo train.

Wobbly rails for the Bamboo Train

The train, called a nori by the locals, is made of scrap metal from tanks and trucks left over from the war with Khmer Rouge.

It's basically a wheeled frame overlaid with a bed of bamboo  – hence “the bamboo train.”

The train is powered by a motorbike or tractor engine, and can get up to a fast 40 kph.

It travels on terribly wobbly old rail tracks originally built by the French.

Having once been a key form of transport for the locals, it is now a tourist attraction.

Dismantling the train to allow another to pass

You sit cross legged or recline on the bamboo flatbed think positive, because basically, there's nothing to hold on to.

Given this, the condition of the rails, and the speed, the ride is very much, a white-knuckle affair.

When another train approaches, the two drivers simply lift the flatbed off its wheels, and take the wheels off the track.

The other train passes through, then they reassemble the thing and carry on – easy peasy – and so much fun!

Unfortunately, the village at the end of the rail, is so full of touts that it became uncomfortable. 

Cambodian New Year water throwing fun

They did not allow us to get on a returning train until we bought something – so we bought some water.

We decided to stay only one night in Battambang, so that evening, went for a walk to see more of the city.

We were in Battambang during the Cambodian New Year celebration, which marks the end of the traditional harvest season.

One way of celebrating that is by throwing water, and several times during our remork ride, we were victims of good-natured water throwing by local kids.

It was great fun. Especially as the temperature was in the 40s .

Overall, we quite enjoyed Battambang’s vibe, food and people, but were looking forward to moving on. 

Our next stop is Siem Reap.