St Petersburg

Marg at Catherine Palace (UNESCO), St Petersburg, Russia 

After driving from ancient Novgorod in our motorhome Vanni, we arrived in Tsarskoye Selo (Ца́рское Село́), 30 km south of St. Petersburg. We were there to see the beautiful 18th century Catherine Palace, which used to be the summer residence of the Russian tsars.

We found a Vanni-sized car park not too far away and walked to the Palace grounds. Once there, we found a very long queue, so we joined it. 

After waiting about an hour and a half in very hot sun we made it through the door. We then waited in another queue to purchase the right tickets, then another to enter the main Palace. 

Amber Room in Catherine Palace, St Petersburg, Russia

Then we were in…….and it was so worth it! The rooms are really decorative, and beautiful. The most beautiful was the famous Amber Room, a reconstruction of the 18th century room originally made of amber, gold leaf and mirrors. It is stunning, and so authentic looking. You could picture Catherine the Great there. 

We had to take an organised group tour with a guide, plugged into the guide’s commentary through earphones. Unfortunately, they only spoke Russian!

However, we broke away from the group and moved through the huge crowds, managing to see the wonderful rooms and displays. We could see why it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Later, we enjoyed a peaceful wander around the extensive and beautiful gardens before moving on.

Oreshek Fortress (UNESCO), Shlisselburg, Russia  

Our next stop was Shlisselburg (Шлиссельбург) on the other side of St Petersburg, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We wanted to see the town, and the ruin of the 14th century Oreshek Fortress. The fortress occupies the entire island of Orekhovy opposite the town of Shlisselburg. Unfortunately, it was closed with no boats going there. 

We looked around the town, but it was in poor condition and didn’t seem historic. But we did see the famous Old Ladoga Canal and its amazing granite sluices, still in place since 1836.

We left after a short time, and headed for central St Petersburg (Санкт-Петербург).

Moscow Triumphal Gate, St Petersburg (UNESCO), Russia

By now it was getting late, and we had over an hour’s drive ahead of us and still needed to find a camping ground for the night. Leigh, reading and deciphering Cyrillic, was working overtime as the navigator! But we made it through St Petersburg city to the impressive Moscow Triumphal Gate, and knew we were close.

We fought our way through a massive traffic jam, but couldn’t turn right where we needed to. However, Marg managed to do a clever (if somewhat illegal!) U-turn, and headed us in the right direction.

When we did find the camp at Stadion Kirovez, it was full of Italian, French and German motorhomes.

Metro Narvskaia, St Petersburg, Russia

They were in a convoy on a guided tour, so we parked in the last available space. Marg then wandered around to find the camp facilities very dirty and not up to the advertised “European Standard”. However, there was a security guard, it felt safe, and it was close to Metro Narvskaia.

The next morning, we walked to the metro and found that the stations are as beautifully ornate as Moscow’s. We bought our tickets for 28 roubles (NZ 50c) each, and found our way into the centre of St Petersburg. 

We managed to buy a tourist map (all in Cyrillic) at the station, then set off to explore.

Art Nouveau buildings on Nevsky Prospect, St Petersburg (UNESCO)

The metro delivered us right into Nevsky Prospect, the main street, and we found ourselves surrounded by immense and stunning buildings. We particularly liked the Art Nouveau Dom Knigi or House of Books, and the Eliseyev Emporium.

St Petersburg was founded in 1703 by Peter the Great and known as 'the city of Tsars' (but was once known as Petrograd then Leningrad). Now-days, it is the second largest city in Russia.

As one of the greatest historical places of Russia, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We could see why, as its full of beautiful architecture, gardens and parks, and grand churches.

Leigh at St Petersburg canal

The Neva River flows through the city and there are several canals. They seemed well used judging by the large number of boats, are crossed by several bridges, and lined with colourful buildings. It is very attractive.

Our sightseeing took in the semi-circular Russian Orthodox Kazan Cathedral. It is immense and spectacular inside and out. We also visited St Isaacs Cathedral, one of the largest cathedrals in the world (built in 1818-58). Its tall gilt dome which dominates the city skyline, uses a huge 100kg of gold.

A favourite place was the interesting Mariinsky Theatre built in 1860. It was the main music theatre of the day and debuted masters such as Tchaikovsky, and Rimsky-Korsakov.

Marg at the Winter Palace of Peter I, St Petersburgh (UNESCO)

We wandered around the huge Winter Palace, home to the Tsars for almost two centuries; the Hermitage Museum; Palace Square; St Michael’s Castle; the Russian Museum, and the lovely Baroque St Nicholas Naval Cathedral.

We had a great time, and the city is easily walkable, and very vibrant.

After a long day of sightseeing, we had a delicious dinner at a traditional-style restaurant, then headed back to the metro and to camp. We arrived to find a new bunch of French campers who had arrived on a guided tour – the campsite was now very, very full and the facilities in even worse condition that on the day we arrived!

Marg at the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood (UNESCO)

Visiting the city again the next day, we wandered along Griboyedov Canal, to the amazing Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood, a former 19th century Russian Orthodox church and now a museum. 

It was built on the site where Emperor Alexander II was assassinated in 1881. The "on Spilled Blood" in the title, refers to his assassination.

This amazing church was full of beautiful mosaic and painted frescoes, and we spent quite a bit of time admiring them. 

Then we crossed the Neva River to see the Peter and Paul Fortress and Church, which contains the tombs of Russian rulers. 

We walked for what seemed a huge distance in really hot temperatures, seeing a range of amazing sights. 

The following day, we metro-ed across town to visit the stunning Smolny Convent. 

Smolny Convent and Cathedral, St Petersburg

The blue and white cathedral there is known as one of the most beautiful in St. Petersburg and was transformed into a concert hall in 1972. We also visited the nearby Alexander Nevsky Abbey, founded by Peter I of Russia in 1710.

By this time, we had seen many palaces and churches, triumphal gates, historic bridges, sunbathers on the Neva River beaches, parks, and shops. 

Back at camp, people were intrigued that we were from NZ, that two women were travelling alone in Russia (no men and no guide!!), and that we owned our own van. We felt quite intrepid after speaking with them.

Marg at Peter the Great Palace (UNESCO), Peterhof, Russia

Leaving St Petersburg, we drove west to Peterhof (Петергоф) and the Palace of Peter The Great, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We arrived just as the fountains spouted to a musical accompaniment. It was quite spectacular. 

It was also great timing on our part as we managed to find parking right near one of the main gates, and got through the ticketing process without queuing. There were huge numbers of tour groups and individuals in the grounds as it is obviously a very popular tourist spot.

The fountains are beautiful, and the gardens consist of a huge expanse of mature trees, manicured grass, beautiful flowers beds, and canals. We had a lovely peaceful wander around there.

Cathedral of Peter and Paul, Peterhof, Russia

Later, we walked around Perterhof town and admired the lovely houses and gardens. But the 19th century gothic Cathedral of Peter and Paul caught our eye, with its polychrome style of brickwork forming a geometric pattern, and its green roofs. We thought it very ornate.

Unfortunately, by now, our Russian visa was due to expire and we had to leave the country. So, from Peterhof, we drove to the Russia/Estonia border and lined up to enter Estonia. 

While waiting, we reflected on our time in Russia. Sure, we were challenged by the terrible roads; the language, especially in terms of road signs; and the lack of camping grounds. But we were rewarded with stunning architecture; ancient buildings; an interesting and regal history; scenes of cultural richness and rural poverty; and wonderfully friendly people. We’d had a great time, and were ready to move on into Estonia, our next stop.

This blog describes part of our 6-month motorhome trip around northern and eastern Europe, which began in Prague.