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| Road into the Sahara, Morocco |
There we were in the Sahara driving along a very bleak road. The heat continued to increase and the hot Sirocco wind off the Sahara was almost unbearable.
We had been unwell for days because of unwittingly, drinking mint tea out of dirty glasses offered by the host at our previous campground.
So, we were not happy when we arrived in Merzouga at the edge of the Sahara Desert, to find that our planned campsite had no shade for us, or our motorhome, Vanni, and their electricity current was not strong enough to run our air-conditioning – absolutely vital in the 45 degree (C) heat. So we drove back out their gate thinking where to now...?
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| The guide to our Sahara Hotel |
Then, a chappie on a bicycle sought our attention: “oh no, not another guide or tout” we thought (see Magical Morocco blog for background).
However, this time the sell was for accommodation, and his accommodation DID have shade, and electricity strong enough to run our air-con – sold!
It was Haven La Chance Hotel which was wonderfully located right on the edge of the Sahara Desert in the Erg Chebbi Dunes.
We decided to decline his offer of mint tea and settled down in Vanni with the air-con up full.
The next morning feeling a little better, we walked the short distance into the Sahara Desert. It was very, very hot, even early in the morning.
But we were surrounded by an endless and stunning vista of sand, and beautiful sand dunes.
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| Leigh and Marg in the Sahara Desert, Morocco |
The next morning feeling a little better, we walked the short distance into the Sahara Desert. It was very, very hot, even early in the morning.
But we were surrounded by an endless and stunning vista of sand, and beautiful sand dunes.
The Sahara Desert covers 9.2 million square kilometres of northern Africa, across 11 countries. This makes it the largest hot desert in the world.
It is known as having one of the world’s harshest environments. Despite this, it is home to around 500 species of plants, 70 of mammal, 90 bird, 100 reptile, and many species of spiders, scorpions and the like.
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| Sahara dune and camel |
We didn’t see many of these, but we did see camels, as they majestically walked across the hot sand and dunes.
We decided not to do the 4 hour camel ride deep into the desert – bad idea when you've been ill, and need to be within 30 seconds or so of a toilet.
Instead, we visited the local village and purchased a lovely little kilim for Vanni’s floor, and a cushion cover (now a cushion for Leigh’s back while on the computer).
Despite our illness, we really loved the amazing landscape of the Sahara. We wished we hadn't been unwell and so dehydrated, and been more physically able to get out and explore it further.
Despite our illness, we really loved the amazing landscape of the Sahara. We wished we hadn't been unwell and so dehydrated, and been more physically able to get out and explore it further.
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| Gate into Rissani, Morocco |
Leaving the Sahara, we drove over narrow, bumpy desert roads to Rissani, which has the largest traditional souk market in this area. As we drove through the town, we were dodging chickens, donkeys, people, and a virtual wall of activity.
Heading west, a few hours later we detoured to the Todra Gorge, a series of limestone river canyons in the eastern part of the High Atlas Mountains. The scenery was stunning.
However, the Gorge road was taking us north, the wrong direction for our next destination. So we did U-turn and retraced our steps out of the gorge back to the N10 road, to drive further west.
Heading west, a few hours later we detoured to the Todra Gorge, a series of limestone river canyons in the eastern part of the High Atlas Mountains. The scenery was stunning.
However, the Gorge road was taking us north, the wrong direction for our next destination. So we did U-turn and retraced our steps out of the gorge back to the N10 road, to drive further west.
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Village washing day in the Dadès River, Morocco |
There are several villages along the route, and it was interesting watching the villagers go about their daily business, such as washing their clothes and rugs in the river.
Most of the villagers are Berber people. They are traditionally farmers, and also keep herds of sheep or goats.
Most of the villagers are Berber people. They are traditionally farmers, and also keep herds of sheep or goats.
The villages and scenery were quite different to the desert scenery that we had just seen in the Sahara.
Coming out of the Todra Gorge we found the town of Tinghir, known for its oasis comprised of hundreds of palm trees. It stretches for 30 km along the foothills of the Atlas Mountains.
Leaving Tinghir, we drove through more Berber villages and ancient kasbahs. The buildings are made of mud-brick that is the same colour as the surrounding earth, making them almost invisible until you are upon them.
One of these is Imiter, known for its big silver mine. Apparently the mine is the seventh largest producer of silver in the world and the largest in Africa. Interestingly, the Moroccan Royal Family is the main shareholder of the mining company.
Apparently, the locals recently organised a series of protests to reclaim some of water that the mine uses in its operations. Their efforts have resulted in a decline in water use at the mine, and an increase of water back to the village.
Soon after, we drove into the town of Boumalne Dadès and through the edge of the Dadès Gorges.
The Gorges are a series of valleys that have been formed by the Dadès River over many millions of years.
The result provides spectacular scenery. It is also home to a series of oases and kasbahs, giving rise to the area's nickname of "the valley of a thousand kasbahs".
By mid-afternoon, we had arrived in the hilltown of Ouarzazat, with its old souk.
This place has traditionally been a crossing point for traders crossing the desert to and from Europe. |
| Imiter comune in the Dadès Valley, Morocco |
Leaving Tinghir, we drove through more Berber villages and ancient kasbahs. The buildings are made of mud-brick that is the same colour as the surrounding earth, making them almost invisible until you are upon them.
One of these is Imiter, known for its big silver mine. Apparently the mine is the seventh largest producer of silver in the world and the largest in Africa. Interestingly, the Moroccan Royal Family is the main shareholder of the mining company.
Apparently, the locals recently organised a series of protests to reclaim some of water that the mine uses in its operations. Their efforts have resulted in a decline in water use at the mine, and an increase of water back to the village.
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| Boumalne Dadès, Morocco |
Soon after, we drove into the town of Boumalne Dadès and through the edge of the Dadès Gorges.
The Gorges are a series of valleys that have been formed by the Dadès River over many millions of years.
The result provides spectacular scenery. It is also home to a series of oases and kasbahs, giving rise to the area's nickname of "the valley of a thousand kasbahs".
By mid-afternoon, we had arrived in the hilltown of Ouarzazat, with its old souk.
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| Kasbah Taourirt, Ouarzazate, Morocco |
After a look around Ouarzazat, we couldn’t find a decent and safe camping place, so decided to drive on to Marrakesh.
The trip to Marrakesh took a lot longer than planned, as the narrow road wound its way for hours across the Atlas Mountains.
There were many trucks on the route, but the truck drivers here are great. They encourage you to overtake them by putting on their left indicator to tell you that the road ahead is safe.
However, the road is very narrow and on one occasion, our wing mirror clipped the mirror of the truck we were overtaking.
We learned later, that this road, especially the area known as the Tizi n’ Tichka pass, is one of the most dangerous in the world.
We were pretty tired by the time we reached the outskirts of Marrakesh, and had no idea where the camping grounds were. Then we spotted a camping sign and followed it onto a very rough dirt track wondering where it would lead us.
There were many trucks on the route, but the truck drivers here are great. They encourage you to overtake them by putting on their left indicator to tell you that the road ahead is safe.
However, the road is very narrow and on one occasion, our wing mirror clipped the mirror of the truck we were overtaking.
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| Tizi n'Tichka Pass in the Atlas Mountains, Morocco |
We learned later, that this road, especially the area known as the Tizi n’ Tichka pass, is one of the most dangerous in the world.
We were pretty tired by the time we reached the outskirts of Marrakesh, and had no idea where the camping grounds were. Then we spotted a camping sign and followed it onto a very rough dirt track wondering where it would lead us.
We drove on, avoiding huge potholes, through a dusty little village, and then suddenly arrived at the gate to the camp....which was shut.
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| Marrakesh campsite |
We peered through the gate and could see a couple of motorhomes, so tooted and waited, and tooted and waited. Eventually a man came who let us in.
What a find - Manzila la Tortue/Camping Car Maroc - a 4 star hotel/RV campsite owned by a European couple. It was beautifully set out with a clean toilet block, clean sites, trees and grass (rare in Morocco). A swimming pool, bar and restaurant topped it off.
After resting for a couple of days, and feeling a little better after our severe illness, we took the camp transport into Marrakesh medina.
This old city is almost 1000 years old and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is still surrounded by 19 km of its original fortified walls that are 9 metres high and 2 metres thick. The walls are interspersed with 19 impressive gates.
We managed not to get lost in the labyrinth of the medina, and somehow, found a pharmacy to stock up on our depleted medical supplies.
We saw as much as we could manage in the heat, and particularly liked the Koutoubia Mosque with its lovely minaret, the architecture of the railway station, and the many alleyways full of shops, people, and loaded donkeys. After a couple of hours, we decided to visit again later, when it would be cooler.
After resting for a couple of days, and feeling a little better after our severe illness, we took the camp transport into Marrakesh medina.
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| Bab Agnaou Gate into Marrakesh, Morocco |
This old city is almost 1000 years old and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is still surrounded by 19 km of its original fortified walls that are 9 metres high and 2 metres thick. The walls are interspersed with 19 impressive gates.
We managed not to get lost in the labyrinth of the medina, and somehow, found a pharmacy to stock up on our depleted medical supplies.
We saw as much as we could manage in the heat, and particularly liked the Koutoubia Mosque with its lovely minaret, the architecture of the railway station, and the many alleyways full of shops, people, and loaded donkeys. After a couple of hours, we decided to visit again later, when it would be cooler.
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| Marg and snake charmers at Marrakesh, Morocco |
Arriving at dusk, our first stop was Jamaa el-Fna square, at the centre of the old city. The largest square in Africa, it is a riot of colour, noise and sights, both delighting and assaulting the senses at the same time. We even saw the famous snake charmers…from a distance!
In the end, the evening temperature was not much cooler than in daytime, hovering in the mid-40’s and we struggled with the hot wind.
We thought Marrakesh was dirtier, and less friendly than Fes, but were very pleased that we'd visited.
Manzila la Tortue/Camping Car Maroc was a great place to relax and recover. We swam in their pool, and sat in the shade and just generally relaxed.
After several nights at our little camping oasis, we decided we would drive to the coast seeking the cooler temperatures of the Atlantic Ocean. So, our next stop is Essaouira.
This blog describes part of our 6 month motorhome trip around western Europe, which began in Prague.
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