 |
| The hill town of Lagadia in the centre of the Peloponnese |
We’d been travelling in the Peloponnese and were now leaving a very hot Olympia, heading east, to Athens.
One of the most spectacular villages on this route for us was Lagadia, which is a lovely hill town.
Getting there, we followed what we thought was the main road, but it turned out to be the narrow secondary road.
However, it was lovely driving across some of the most amazing and picturesque countryside, and through lots of attractive little villages.
However, it was lovely driving across some of the most amazing and picturesque countryside, and through lots of attractive little villages.
Somehow, we got lost (one of the drawbacks of trying to avoid main roads and motorways...at least that’s our story!).
 |
| The twisting road from Olympia to Lagadia |
We stopped to ask two men for directions and they were very helpful and said that we could continue (and fit through) the narrow road we were on.
They asked where we were from and were very excited to hear we were from New Zealand.
One of the men was so thrilled to hear that Leigh had been born in Melbourne as his mother lives there. We parted like old friends with many smiles and thanks.
One of the men was so thrilled to hear that Leigh had been born in Melbourne as his mother lives there. We parted like old friends with many smiles and thanks.
 |
| Tight corners through the hill towns of the Peloponnese |
Moving on, luck was with us because a big truck piled high with hay, came toward us around a blind corner just before we got there. We were very happy to stop and let it go by.
We felt lucky to have stumbled upon such an amazing route - we did not expect it to be so spectacular.
We felt lucky to have stumbled upon such an amazing route - we did not expect it to be so spectacular.
After our experiences of getting lost and having a long way yet to travel, we decided to use the toll way to get us the rest of the way to Athens.
 |
| Getting through a picket line to catch our ferry to Amorgos |
Our campsite was 20 minutes north of Athens in a leafy suburb called Kiffissia.
The pleasant green environment there, proved to be a boon in the extremely hot weather. Especially as we had to spend more time there than we originally planned, because of the strikes and unrest in Athens, about their economic situation.
The pleasant green environment there, proved to be a boon in the extremely hot weather. Especially as we had to spend more time there than we originally planned, because of the strikes and unrest in Athens, about their economic situation.
We decided to keep out of the city and not risk getting caught up with protesters and the reported violence. We were originally hoping to get out of Athens, to a Greek island called Amorgos, but had to wait it out.
As our ferry company was also on strike, we spent a couple of anxious days wondering if we would ever get to Amorgos island at all.
 |
| The port of Aegiali on the Greek island of Amorgos |
We watched the news (which we couldn't really understand due to the language), tried to get on line to get English information (but had dreadful Internet access), changed our tickets twice, and in the end got to the Port to find our ferry had been delayed by another 5 hours because it was being picketed!
Eventually the picket line was broken up by the military, and finally we boarded our ferry.
We had a long, noisy overnight trip and finally reached Amorgos at 7.30 am.
Amorgos is a small and unspoiled island at the south-eastern edge of the Cyclades Group. We berthed at beautiful Aegiali, a fishing village on the island.
 |
| The view from our hotel in Aegiali |
We carried our bags up lots of steps to our accommodation at Hotel Karkisia.
This was a perfect Cyclades, white and blue shuttered building.
We had an amazing view over the harbour and surrounding hillsides, which were scattered with small white mountain villages.
This was a perfect Cyclades, white and blue shuttered building.
We had an amazing view over the harbour and surrounding hillsides, which were scattered with small white mountain villages.
We were on Amorgos for 10 days, to take a break from campervan life.
There was plenty to see and do – we saw historic windmills and monasteries, beautiful beaches with the most stunningly clear water, several small mountain villages, and charming fishing villages.
 |
| Potamos donkey |
We enjoyed refreshing white wine and wonderful goat cheese - both unique to Amorgos, and lots of seafood including sun-dried octopus, shrimp and small fish.
It was very easy to walk around Aegiali’s narrow streets and steps, to the beach, or to one of the many restaurants.
One beautiful balmy night after dinner, we walked up the hill behind Aegiali to Potamos, a traditional mountain village with a very small population.
 |
| Marg and the rented scooter |
At one point we surprised a donkey and his rider as they climbed up the steps and around one of the narrow bends.
A local bit of excitement was a luxury motor launch sinking in the harbour right in front of us.
It had to be rescued by the local fishermen and towed to shore. The event was the talk of the town for several days.
 |
| Lunch at Katapola |
Leigh was in 7th heaven being back on a bike, and riding around narrow, winding, and hilly coastal roads with the wind blowing in her hair (under her helmet!!!).
Marg was on the back looking like a throw-back from CHIPS highway patrol days (if you are old enough to remember that TV programme!).
It was great. The scooter enabled us to see a lot more sights.
 |
| Chora, with ancient windmills along the back ridge line |
The main village is Katapola, a traditional and typical Cycladic village that sits in a large and lovely enclosed bay. The bay is one of the largest natural harbours in the Aegean Sea, and Katapola is now the main port of Amorgos.
We had a lovely look around, and also visited an ancient Minoan site and its resident donkey.
Later, we had a great seafood meal in a delightful little café right on the pebbled beach – shades of Shirley Valentine.
We headed back to Aegiali, tired but very happy with our day.
 |
Monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa, Amorgos |
It’s a typical Cycladic village (only 400 permanent residents), and consists of very narrow winding alleys and streets lined with gorgeous white houses, and a few tavernas.
Just above Chora, at the highest point on the hill, are several windmills, and a 13th century Venetian castle. It’s so delightful.
We visited the amazing Monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa which was built in the 11th century
 |
| Tholaria shop with friendly small shopkeeper |
We had to climb 300 steps to get up to the entrance, but were rewarded at the top, with fantastic views over the very rugged southern coast of Amorgos.
We were received into the monastery with ouzo and cake by a very friendly priest – a lovely welcome.
The monastery has 8 floors and the maximum width is 5 metres. The inside is amazing, and the natural rock shows throughout.
Closer to Aegiali were other delightful little mountain villages that you couldn't access by car. Having the scooter enabled us to visit them.
 |
| Us in Aegiali |
One of those was Tholaria, a mountain village around 2 km up from Aegiali. It is another village full of beautiful, whitewashed Cycladic architecture.
We wandered around the gorgeous village and came upon the only grocery shop; in the square by the church.
It was being tended by a lovely woman who seemed about 4 foot tall (about 1.22 m). Leigh at 5 foot (1.52 m), looked quite tall, standing next to her.
There were photos of several generations of her family on the walls of the shop.
 |
| At the Acropolis, Athens |
After 10 days, we were sad to leave Amorgos, and had enjoyed a wonderful relaxing break. But we were eager to return to our campervan Vanni, and continue our travels.
The return daytime ferry trip enabled us to get a peek of other islands on the route, and we arrived safely back in Athens on time.
We grabbed a taxi back to Kaffissia in Athens, and the campground where we had left Vanni.
We grabbed a taxi back to Kaffissia in Athens, and the campground where we had left Vanni.
The next day we caught the local bus and metro into Athens to the Plaka and old city area, and had a great time seeing the main sights, and wandering around the narrow streets full of little shops.
 |
| Dinner in Patras, our last night in Greece |
Several clothes purchases later, and despite the fact that the temperature was about 37 degrees, we walked up the hill to view the Acropolis, with its amazing history.
It was very hot and windy at the top but we were glad we made the effort to get there.
Later, we safely navigated the metro and a different local bus back to the campsite, for our final night in Athens.
We trucked out of Athens towards Patras, our stopover for catching a ferry to Brindisi in Italy. Our campsite was 21 kms south of Patras where we relaxed and consumed another delicious lovely meal.
A highlight for us in Greece has been the friendliness of the Greek people, and their genuine excitement and happiness when they hear we are from New Zealand.
They really like Kiwis, and we were constantly amazed at how much they knew about our wonderful country. Several references were made about WWII and how we were such good friends of Greece.
We were sad to say goodbye to Greece as we drove to the Port to board our ferry to Italy.
Comments
Post a Comment