The High Tatras

Lunch at the Chateau Grand Castle

Leaving our campsite in the Low Tatra Mountains, we drove north-east. For much of the route, we followed a very bendy, but picturesque road, with great views of the Low Tatras.

Then suddenly, the mountains were on our right instead of our left, and we realised we had taken a very wrong turn.

We found a road that would take us back in the right direction, but when we turned onto it, we saw a large castle-like complex. So, we decided to take a look.

Glad we did, because it was the Chateau Grand Castle which had an interesting fit out, and also beautiful looking restaurant. Hmm…we thought…..let’s have an early lunch.

So, we decided to partake of the local fare called Ballroom Balls.

View of the High Tatra Mountains

Yes, I know what you are thinking - but they were great. Smoked ham inside potato dumplings with sauerkraut – excellent with the local white wine.

After a lovely lunch there, we carried on and once again, had our great views back. We were headed for the High Tatras.

The High Tatras are the largest alpine-type massif in Central Europe, it includes 15 mountains ranging between 2,547 and 2,655 m in height.

They sit along the border of northern Slovakia and southern Poland.

Leigh in Starý Smokovec

The area is dotted with lovely little alpine-like villages, and one that we were headed for is called Poprad, which sits at the foot of the High Tatras. However, we found that to be more of a city rather than village (population about 50 k) but it has a nice old town centre.

After a quick look around there, we drove further north into the mountains. We were heading for Starý Smokovec in the central part of the High Tatras, and one of the main Tatra towns.

It has a nice town centre and good parking so we stopped for a look around. There were lots of interesting buildings and it was quite vibrant. 

We wanted to explore the Tatras a little more, so leaving Starý Smokovec, drove further into the mountains to Tatranská Lomnica.

Lomnicky stit cable car

There, we got the cable car to the summit of Lomnicky stit (2632m), the Tatras 3rd highest peak.

The cable car is apparently, one of the steepest in Europe. It’s famous for its lack of support pylons between the two stations. Quite scary but we trusted it.

Arriving at the top, we had great views back down to the villages below. But it sure was cold. 

We were glad we weren’t there any later in the season when it is fully covered in snow.

After we arrived back at the bottom, we took a little side detour to check some waterfalls.

Top of Lomnicky stit (2632 m)

We found several, but liked the Obrovsky Vodopád waterfall. It had quite a narrow cascade with a 20 meter fall. 

Soon after, we decided that we needed to get back to the campervan and find a place to stay for the night. We’d had such a great day.

Our preferred campsite was closed, and after searching the area, we ended up outside the Hotel Hills in Stari Lesna. We enjoyed a chat and local beer with Eduard the manager/owner(?) who kindly let us camp in his carpark.

The next morning, we drove south-east, away from the mountains, quickly arriving in Kezmarok. This is a quaint old town dominated by the Kežmarský hrad Castle.

Marg with Levoča Town Hall and church behind (UNESCO)

Moving on, we stopped for lunch in the town of Levoča. This town is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The town sits inside a well-preserved wall, and there are many lovely Renaissance buildings inside it.

We particularly liked the Old Town Hall which was built during the 15th-17th centuries (it’s now a museum), and the 14th century of Basilica of St. James, which contains the largest wooden Gothic altar in Europe.

We were also quite taken with a black birdcage-like structure outside the Town Hall. It’s called the “Cage of Shame”, and in the 17th century, was used as a jail for female villains.

After a good look around, and another interesting day in Slovakia, we decided to call it quits and spent the night at the nearby Camp Levoca Dolina.

Spišský hrad (UNESCO)

The next morning, still driving south-east, we found Spišský hrad, also known as Spiš Castle.

This castle ruin is the largest in central Europe at 41,426 m², and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Built in the 12th century on the site of an earlier castle, the main structure sits high on a limestone rock, while its outer wall trails down the rocky hill behind. We found it quite impressive.

Our next stop was Presov, Slovakia’s 3rd largest city. It has a medieval town centre, but as its mostly all in the main street, we just did a drive-by.

Leaving there, we arrived in Košice, another large city. They also have an old town centre and it dates back to the 13th century. 

Košice State Theatre

There were many narrow, winding streets and heaps of restaurants, pubs and cafes. It was quite a vibrant place.

That night, we stayed at Salas Barca campsite in Košice. However, it was in a ghastly location, close to a motorway junction, an airport, trains, and dogs that fight a lot. 

But it was also, right beside a pub. We visited there for our evening meal, and were pleasantly surprised as it served up a delicious traditional Slovak dinner.

We must say, we would have been lost many times on this trip if it hadn’t been for the new Samsung Galaxy phone purchased before we left. It has, among other things, offline GPS. It’s been great as we have focussed on the small back roads and villages that barely show on the paper maps.

We’re heading off again tomorrow, with our destination being the wine regions of Hungary.

The above describes part of our 7 month campervan trip around central and southern Europe, which began in Germany.